Ulaanbaatar Then And Now – Part 9

Continuing on from early pieces:

Scott Notes in 2000: Had the opportunity to attend some of the annual Nadaam festivities during the week. It is the biggest event in UB being held from 11/7 to 13/7 each year, the anniversary of the 1912 Mongolian Revolution.

Thomo Notes in 2006: Er, that was either 1911 (the first independence from China after the Bogd Khan was proclaimed or 1921 Scott (I think). 1921 was when the Mongolians emphatically exercised their independence from the Chinese after the Chinese had reneged on an agreement signed in 1915 between China, Russia and Mongolia guaranteeing Mongolian Independence or autonomy. The Chinese were defeated by Sukhbaatar in 1921 and on 11 and 12 July 1921 Ulaanbaatar was liberated by the Mongolians along with soldiers from the Russian Red Army. A visit to Sukhbaatar and Altan Bulag in Selenge Aimag is worthwhile for a visit to the Sukhbaatar Museum there.

Scott Notes in 2000: It supposedly showcases Mongolia’s finest in the three sport of wrestling, archery & horse riding.

Thomo Notes in 2006: They are known as the “three manly sports”.

Scott Notes in 2000: The 1st 2 days are when the events are held with the 3rd being a day of rest. The client took us to the opening ceremony which started at 11AM at the Nadaam Stadium (also in a state of disrepair). The opening ceremony comprised of some good body stirring military music with the drums being very prominent. Remember the opening ceremony at the Seoul Olympics with the drums. Unfortunately the rest of the ceremony was a bit of a bore, some military people on horses rode around the stadium, the wrestlers paid their respect to Buddah, and the archers just stood their until it was time for them to depart. Oh by the way during the whole of the ceremony parachute jumpers kept landing in the Stadium – some even managed to land where they were supposed to.

Thomo Notes in 2006: Sometimes having a good interpreter with you helps at events like this as they can explain what is happening and its significance. Trouble is that sometimes the interpreter gets so interested or involved in what is happening that they forget to interpret for you.

Scott Notes in 2000: The client left after about 30 minutes however I stayed on. The wrestling was, well different. There were about 100 plus wrestlers in the stadium contesting an elimination contest. The highest rank wrestler cn choose any opponent, the 2nd higfhest cn then choose his opponent and so it goes on. There are no weight divisions, so the biggest wrestlers (and they are big! Or appeared to be from distance Iwas from them) are often the best. Mongolian wrestling has no time limit with the bout continuing until one wrestler’s upper body from the knee up, apart from the palms, touches the ground. The wrestling comprises of a lot of staring & posturing at each other, and in fact the closing ceremony the other year, normally held at 7pm on the 2nd day. was apparently cancelled because the final bout took over 4 hrs to complete. There is also a lot dancing, supposedly an eagle dance but looked more like a stork flapping it wings, by both opponents before the start of the bout and by the winner at the end of the bout. The winners are bestowed glorious titles depending on how many rounds they win: Falcon (5 rounds), Elephant (7 rounds) & Lion for winning the tournament. One renowned wrestler was given the most prestigious, and legthy, title of the “Eye Pleasing Nationally Famous Mighty & Invincible Giant”. Must admit not very appealing or interesting to watch but the Mongolians seem to enjoy it. Having said that most Mongolians left after the opening ceremony and only return the next day to watch the final bouts.

Thomo Notes in 2006: I have started to enjoy the wresting more and more since being in Mongolia and now understand it better. Mongolian wrestling has similarities with Korean wrestling and, indeed, with Japanese Sumo. The top wrestler here is big, really big. Mongolian wrestlers are also doing well in Japanese Sumo with the top wrestler in Japan at the moment being a Mongolian. Er, and when I find out the significance of the Eagle Dance, I’ll post details of it here as well.